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Victual Reality #2.01



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Broiled Fish

     Broiling is my favorite means of cooking most species of fish. Living close enough to the Texas coast to command either fresh or salt water species, I've learned a great deal about properly cooking freshly caught fish. Catfish is the only edible fish I never broil, since it only seems to taste like catfish when fried in batter or (preferably) corn meal.
     Filleting the fish is an art that one eventually learns to do properly as an angler. Here's a quick synopsis. Head and gut the fish unless one is filleting a large number of fish. In such a case of mass filleting, an ice pick to the brain will put the fish out of its misery for the process. Slice into the fish along the dorsal fin (top), getting as close to the spinal rays as possible, cutting to the depth of the spine. The closer the cut, the less meat that is wasted. Slice all the way to the tail, but do not separate the skin from the tail. That needs to remain intact for the final cut. Then starting at the rear of the rib cage, perform a similar cut on the ventral side to the tail. From the front, use the fileting knife to run along the ribs and finish detaching the meat from the skeletal system. When done, the fillet with skin still attached, should hang from the tail. The skin is laid flat on a surface with the remainder of the fish held in the free hand. At the tail, the meat is cut free of the skin, and then the fillet is rocked back and forth, the knife is held stationary, blade pointing down at the surface in contact with the skin, until the fillet is free of the skin. Notch out any tiny bones that lie just above the ribs. These can be felt right at the point just above where the fillet begins to thin out and runs the length of the ribs. Experience can make this cut without wasting the fillet. This is the basic four cut fillet. Practice makes perfect. Go catch a lot of fish and stay with it until you can produce a clean and proper fillet with ease.

     There is no secret to broiling fish, yet it remains a mystery to so many people. The tendency is to overcook fish, robbing it of its nutrients and taste. Properly cooked fish is a drug, giving the consumer a profound sense of well being and contentment for many hours after the meal. Overcooking fish robs the meal of this effect. Fish is done as it pearls and just begins to flake when prodded. Cooking it until it flakes on its own or until it browns at the edges is overcooking it. If this is how you like fish, don't bother catching it. Go get your fish at a fast food establishment. They always overcook it.
     Broiling is an art of fillet thickness and distance from the element or fire. The thicker the fillet, the further it should be from the cooking heat, and the longer it takes to cook. For me, a three to six pound fish makes the best broiled fillet steak. A larger fish is too thick to properly fillet without drying the exterior, and a smaller fish is too much work and takes up too much space on the broiling platter. Smaller fish are best fried. Larger fish are best cubed and fried as nuggets or used in stew or fried whole (an artform in itself).
     Topping fish is relatively easy. A light dosing of garlic, cayenne, and onion, basted with fresh squeezed lime juice, makes an excellent topping to bring out the flavor at its best. Never salt broiled fish until it hits your plate (and then only if you must).

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