Broiling is my favorite means of cooking most species
of fish. Living close enough to the Texas coast to command either
fresh or salt water species, I've learned a great deal about properly
cooking freshly caught fish. Catfish is the only edible fish I never
broil, since it only seems to taste like catfish when fried in batter
or (preferably) corn meal.
Filleting the fish is an art that one
eventually learns to do properly as an angler. Here's a quick
synopsis. Head and gut the fish unless one is filleting a large
number of fish. In such a case of mass filleting, an ice pick to the
brain will put the fish out of its misery for the process. Slice into
the fish along the dorsal fin (top), getting as close to the spinal
rays as possible, cutting to the depth of the spine. The closer the
cut, the less meat that is wasted. Slice all the way to the tail, but
do not separate the skin from the tail. That needs to remain intact
for the final cut. Then starting at the rear of the rib cage, perform
a similar cut on the ventral side to the tail. From the front, use
the fileting knife to run along the ribs and finish detaching the
meat from the skeletal system. When done, the fillet with skin still
attached, should hang from the tail. The skin is laid flat on a
surface with the remainder of the fish held in the free hand. At the
tail, the meat is cut free of the skin, and then the fillet is rocked
back and forth, the knife is held stationary, blade pointing down at
the surface in contact with the skin, until the fillet is free of the
skin. Notch out any tiny bones that lie just above the ribs. These
can be felt right at the point just above where the fillet begins to
thin out and runs the length of the ribs. Experience can make this
cut without wasting the fillet. This is the basic four cut fillet.
Practice makes perfect. Go catch a lot of fish and stay with it until
you can produce a clean and proper fillet with ease.
There is no secret to broiling fish, yet it remains a
mystery to so many people. The tendency is to overcook fish, robbing
it of its nutrients and taste. Properly cooked fish is a drug, giving
the consumer a profound sense of well being and contentment for many
hours after the meal. Overcooking fish robs the meal of this effect.
Fish is done as it pearls and just begins to flake when prodded.
Cooking it until it flakes on its own or until it browns at the edges
is overcooking it. If this is how you like fish, don't bother
catching it. Go get your fish at a fast food establishment. They
always overcook it.
Broiling is an art of
fillet thickness and distance from the element or fire. The thicker
the fillet, the further it should be from the cooking heat, and the
longer it takes to cook. For me, a three to six pound fish makes the
best broiled fillet steak. A larger fish is too thick to properly
fillet without drying the exterior, and a smaller fish is too much
work and takes up too much space on the broiling platter. Smaller
fish are best fried. Larger fish are best cubed and fried as nuggets
or used in stew or fried whole (an artform in itself).
Topping fish is relatively easy. A
light dosing of garlic, cayenne, and onion, basted with fresh
squeezed lime juice, makes an excellent topping to bring out the
flavor at its best. Never salt broiled fish until it hits your plate
(and then only if you must).