Mini-diver



     Yes, Virginia, there is a diving plug for the fly rod. And it's more effective than the full size ones to boot. But if you think you can just whip one of these out the first time without tuning it, think again. They're not that simple to make properly. But oh do they ever catch fish, especially bass, when you get them right.

     This is a balsa fly, quite similar to a popping bug, with one major exception. It has a lip and is full of action. But unlike the popping bug, tuning is everything, and the tuning must be precise, or you'll twist your leader and tippet to no end. As tiny as these constructions are, a hundredth of an inch makes a difference in the action. Expect multiple failures, even after you learn to get them right.

Hook: #10 Mustad 33903 (popping bug hook, kinked shaft) & #10 large ring eyed or #12 treble trailer
Body: 1/8 inch balsa
Lip: plastic from a 2 liter soft drink bottle, cut to shape
Tail: long marabou strands
Paint: acrylic
Sealer: 5 minute epoxy

     That's right, the lip comes from a 2 liter bottle, but the section is so small that the curve is merely a hint which actually aids in the action caused by the catching of the water by the bill. Turn the edges forward for best effect. It's cut in this shape to act as the bill, the slot at the top to accommodate the shaft of the hook for a more stable mounting. This image (see graphics page) is larger than the real thing by about 4X, as the shaft notch should indicate. Tuning is done with tying scissors at the bottom corners.

     Probably the most critical stage in constructing the mini-diver is the alignment of the bill, slotting the body so that it runs true. Before I get into cutting angles, let's take a look at the way this flies runs through the water.

     The bill on the retrieve points straight down or slightly to the rear below the fly, pointing the nose downward. This is the reason for the trailer hook, since hook up with the main hook is purely a fluke without the trailer. The point of the hook is entirely at the wrong angle, and the bill obstructs the bite as well, making the trailer hook a necessity for contact with the fish. Leave it off and they will strike again and again, but the likelihood of a catch is negligible.
     When the fly is tuned properly, it vibrates in much the same way that a small in-line spinner hums, though at a higher pitch with an easier pull. There's a definite zip in the rod during the retrieve that lets you know without a doubt that it is running true. While similar to other vibrating lures, the feel is unique and distinguishable, and this is what spells its success in attracting and catching fish. The closest thing in nature to this sensation is the sound of the humming bird.
     The body is the vehicle of the fly, but the part that attracts the fish so is the tail. The long marabou streamers should be an inch and a half to two inches long, enough to display the multiple waves that ripple down its length as the body is wagging it back and forth with a wavelength of a fraction of an inch. The sound of the very rapid wobble brings the fish to investigate, and the ripple of the tail is the visual reflex stimulus to provoke the bite. It's an incredibly effective combination. It is one of those effects that must be experienced to be appreciated fully. It does things to fish behavior that no other lure does. It's almost a comedy cue, good for many laughs when sight fishing the shallows.

     Now, to achieve this effect, the dynamics must be balanced in terms of water resistance, and the better the slotting of the body is for the hook and bill, the better it will run. The body must first be large enough to float the fly on the surface, as well as keep the fly rightside-up during the wobbling retrieve. At the same time, it must not be so long as to disrupt the vibration. Plump is better here than long and skinny. This is not a standard plug in terms of mechanics. At the fly level, mass is considerably less in ratio to the area of resistance when pulled through the water. While it still functions on the same wobble principle as a regular plug, the variety of basic design is considerably more limited. Ideally, the bill should be between 40š and 50š offset from the hook shaft. While it might be possible to tune a mini-diver with a different angle, it won't be predictable.
     Here, a long string of experiments are ususally needed to personally fine tune the process of construction. Variation in the density of the balsa wood on the market makes it impossible to define one set of parameters. It's just one of those things that must be approached individually with the particular items for construction that you have on hand. Bill size and shape, body size and shape, paint thickness, exterior epoxy presence, length, thickness, and stiffness of tail marabou, size of trailer hook, etc. all play a role in the design and tuning. It holds many days of experimentation at the personal design level and tuning sessions to come up with the feel for the art of construction. But it is a joyous pursuit, one quite rewarding for its efforts.

     Tying the fly is not that big of a problem if you've ever made any popping bugs. Basically the only difference is the bill and slotting for it, glued in with epoxy at the same time that the hook is set. The rest is pretty much popping bug technique. But once off of the tying bench, it's anything but popping bug technique. But once you get a taste of the feel of a properly running fly, finding the rest is just a matter time and experience. And with the way the fish respond to this lure, you will gladly give the time and experience.
     There are plenty of variations to try. Other tail materials can give different effects. Marabou is the most responsive, but other effects also work, like fish hair, squirrels tail, thin zonker strips, any long pliable strand is possible, even flashabou and other synthetics. Use of stinger trebel hooks tied into the shaft slot instead of trailers give the fly a whole new action. Quick snaps can be used to replace stinger hooks as they dull or break. Holes in the bill can streamline the wobble. There are so many variations that the imagination is almost the limit. Some of my creations have run deeper than three feet, remarkable considering the scale of the fly. Compared to the big divers in size ratio, this would be like hitting thirty feet or better with a high floating diver.

     Best of all is the response of the fish to the active presence of this fly. The hum and ripple of the tail zipping through the water wakes up something very strong down inside the fish's tiny brains. Expect gill flaring, eye crossing, tail swishing, water churning build-ups to a strike, much like a bull after the proverbial red cape. They don't quite know what to make of it, but it sure stirs them very deeply, and a lack of strike response to it is almost an impossibility for the fish. Be prepared for a hard strike, but at the same time, be prepared for the soft ones too. You never know, but just be prepared.
     One final note. Unless you're planning on going into business making these for other people, keep this fly a secret. After the trouble of constructing and tuning these, you won't want to sell them for a reasonable price. You'll want to keep them and fish them yourself.